This Seattle fashion designer makes hundreds of clothes — with zero waste – The Seattle Times

Report on Sustainable Fashion Practices and Alignment with UN Sustainable Development Goals

A Case Study of Designer Janelle Abbott and the JRAT Label

This report examines the work of zero-waste designer Janelle Abbott and her fashion label, JRAT, as a model for sustainable and ethical practices within the fashion industry. The analysis highlights the alignment of her business model with key United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly those concerning responsible production, decent work, and environmental stewardship.

The Fashion Industry’s Challenge to Sustainable Development

The conventional fashion industry presents significant challenges to global sustainability efforts. Its operational model is frequently at odds with several SDGs.

• Environmental Impact: The United Nations Environment Programme reports that the industry generates 92 million tons of textile waste annually, directly contravening the principles of SDG 12 (Responsible Consumption and Production). This level of waste contributes to pollution and resource depletion.
• Social and Economic Impact: The prevalence of exploitative labor practices, described as “modern-day slavery,” undermines SDG 8 (Decent Work and Economic Growth), which aims to promote sustained, inclusive economic growth and decent work for all.

JRAT: A Framework for Responsible Production (SDG 12)

Janelle Abbott’s design philosophy and business practices provide a direct response to the industry’s shortcomings, embodying the core targets of SDG 12.

Core Operational Principles

1. Material Sourcing: The label exclusively utilizes reclaimed and extant fabrics, diverting materials from the waste stream. Abbott’s studio functions as a repository for reclaimed textiles, transforming potential waste into new products.
2. Zero-Waste Design: The adoption of zero-waste pattern drafting is integral to the production process. This innovative technique eliminates both paper and textile waste during garment creation.
3. Production on Demand: Creations are not mass-manufactured. Each piece is unique and often made with a specific destination or client in mind, preventing overproduction. Runway show items are made immediately available for purchase to ensure every garment is utilized.

Promoting Decent Work and Sustainable Economic Models (SDG 8)

Abbott’s approach is founded on a commitment to ethical labor and economic justice, reflecting the objectives of SDG 8.

Ethical Commitments

• Rejection of Exploitation: Informed by personal history and awareness of human trafficking in fast fashion, Abbott’s model consciously avoids exploitative labor conditions.
• Fair Supply Chain: A primary business challenge is ensuring fair payment for all involved in the supply chain while maintaining accessibility for consumers.
• Sustainable Business Growth: The business model, described as a “one-woman manufacturing facility,” prioritizes sustainable growth over rapid expansion, ensuring ethical standards are maintained.

Innovation and Advocacy for Sustainable Industry (SDG 9 & SDG 6)

Through artistic innovation and public-facing projects, Abbott’s work contributes to building resilient infrastructure and promoting sustainable industrialization, in line with SDG 9 (Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure).

Key Initiatives and Collaborations

• Innovative Methods: Abbott’s practice is presented as an innovative method for reducing waste, demonstrating viable alternatives to the industry’s linear “take-make-waste” model.
• Artistic Advocacy: The installation “149,520 Gallons” directly addresses the fashion industry’s excessive water consumption. By quantifying the 712 gallons of water needed for a single T-shirt, the project raises awareness about the impact on global water resources, a key concern of SDG 6 (Clean Water and Sanitation).
• Collaborative Impact: Partnerships with organizations like the Pacific Northwest Ballet (PNB) allow for the implementation of zero-waste principles within larger institutional frameworks, demonstrating the scalability of sustainable practices.

Analysis of Sustainable Development Goals in the Article

1. Which SDGs are addressed or connected to the issues highlighted in the article?

The article highlights several issues within the fashion industry that directly connect to multiple Sustainable Development Goals. The primary SDGs addressed are:

• SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production: This is the most prominent SDG in the article. The entire narrative revolves around designer Janelle Abbott’s efforts to combat the fashion industry’s wastefulness through her zero-waste design philosophy, use of reclaimed materials, and sustainable business model. The article explicitly mentions the massive amount of textile waste produced annually, which is a core concern of SDG 12.
• SDG 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth: The article touches upon the unethical labor practices prevalent in the “fast fashion” industry. It mentions Abbott’s awareness of “human trafficking and modern-day slavery” and her commitment to an ethical business model where everyone in her supply chain is fairly paid. This directly relates to the goal of promoting sustained, inclusive, and sustainable economic growth, full and productive employment, and decent work for all.
• SDG 6: Clean Water and Sanitation: The article specifically points out the significant water consumption in clothing manufacturing. It highlights that a single T-shirt requires approximately 712 gallons of water to produce. Abbott’s practice of reusing existing textiles implicitly addresses the need for more efficient water use by avoiding the water-intensive process of creating new fabric.

2. What specific targets under those SDGs can be identified based on the article’s content?

Based on the issues discussed, several specific SDG targets can be identified:

1. SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production

   • Target 12.5: “By 2030, substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling and reuse.” Janelle Abbott’s entire business model is a direct application of this target. She prevents waste through “zero-waste pattern drafting” and promotes reuse by creating new garments from “reclaimed textiles.” Her studio, filled with these materials, and her statement, “I’m willing to take anything,” exemplify this commitment.
   • Target 12.2: “By 2030, achieve the sustainable management and efficient use of natural resources.” The article highlights the fashion industry’s inefficient use of resources, particularly water. By reusing fabrics, Abbott’s work avoids the consumption of new natural resources (like cotton) and the water needed to process them, aligning with the goal of resource efficiency.

2. SDG 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth

   • Target 8.7: “Take immediate and effective measures to eradicate forced labour, end modern slavery and human trafficking…” The article mentions Abbott’s early realization of the “human trafficking and modern-day slavery” behind fast fashion. Her refusal to participate in the “exploitative fashion industry” is a direct stance in support of this target.
   • Target 8.8: “Protect labour rights and promote safe and secure working environments for all workers…” Abbott’s concern for the working conditions of garment workers and her focus on “making sure everyone in her supply chain gets fairly paid” directly supports the protection of labor rights and the promotion of fair employment practices.

3. SDG 6: Clean Water and Sanitation

   • Target 6.4: “By 2030, substantially increase water-use efficiency across all sectors…” The article’s reference to the “712 gallons of water to manufacture” a single T-shirt underscores the issue of water inefficiency in the textile industry. Abbott’s reuse of materials contributes to this target by circumventing the water-intensive stages of new textile production.

3. Are there any indicators mentioned or implied in the article that can be used to measure progress towards the identified targets?

The article provides both quantitative and qualitative indicators that can be used to measure the problems and the progress towards the identified targets:

• Indicator for Target 12.5 (Waste Reduction): The article states that the fashion industry “produces 92 million tons of textile waste globally each year.” This figure serves as a global indicator of the scale of the problem that sustainable practices aim to reduce. On a micro-level, Abbott’s output (“she’d made 370 total pieces so far this year; she made 604 in 2024”) from reclaimed materials acts as an indicator of waste being diverted and reused.
• Indicator for Target 6.4 and 12.2 (Resource Efficiency): The specific data point that “a single T-shirt takes roughly 712 gallons of water to manufacture” is a direct indicator of water use intensity in the industry. The title of Abbott’s installation, “149,520 Gallons,” further emphasizes this metric as a key performance indicator for sustainability.
• Indicator for Target 8.7 (Forced Labour): The article provides a qualitative indicator by referencing the existence of “human trafficking and modern-day slavery” within the fast fashion industry. While not a number, this confirms the presence of the problem that this target seeks to eliminate.
• Indicator for Sustainable Practices: The adoption of methods like “zero-waste pattern drafting” and business models based on “reusing extant fabrics” are qualitative indicators of progress towards more responsible production patterns (SDG 12).

4. Table of SDGs, Targets, and Indicators

Source: seattletimes.com