Second thoughts on secondhand? Why the resale market is expanding fashion’s carbon footprint – YaleNews

Report on Consumer Engagement in Primary and Resale Clothing Markets and Implications for Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

Introduction

A recent study highlights significant differences in consumer behavior across age groups regarding engagement in primary and resale clothing markets. The findings emphasize the role of sustainable consumption patterns in achieving the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly those related to responsible consumption and production (SDG 12) and climate action (SDG 13).

Consumer Engagement by Age and Gender

1. Younger consumers demonstrate higher participation in both primary and resale clothing markets compared to older consumers.
2. The secondhand clothing market is notably popular among young people:
   • 79% of respondents aged 18 to 24 reported purchasing secondhand clothing.
   • Only 57% of respondents aged 65 and older engaged in secondhand clothing purchases.
3. Students lead in secondhand clothing consumption, with 84% reporting such purchases.
4. Women show greater engagement than men in both primary and resale clothing markets.

Knowledge and Sustainable Purchasing Behavior

The study reveals that awareness of the fashion industry’s environmental and social impacts does not consistently translate into sustainable purchasing behavior. This finding underscores the complexity of consumer decision-making and the challenges in promoting sustainable consumption aligned with SDG 12.

Behavioral Theories Explaining Consumption Patterns

Researchers applied two behavioral theories to explain the paradox of increased consumption despite sustainable purchasing efforts:

• Rebound Effect: Efficiency improvements lower the environmental or financial cost of goods, leading to increased demand that offsets environmental benefits. For example, purchasing a fuel-efficient car may result in more frequent driving.
• Moral Licensing: Prior virtuous actions, such as buying secondhand clothes, may psychologically justify indulgence in less sustainable behaviors, like purchasing new clothing.

Policy Recommendations for Aligning Resale Practices with SDGs

The study advocates for policy interventions to better integrate resale clothing markets into sustainability frameworks, supporting SDG 12 (Responsible Consumption and Production) and SDG 13 (Climate Action):

• Implement regulations requiring resale platforms to disclose sustainability metrics, including:
  • Unsold inventory disposal rates
  • Shipping-related emissions from garment transportation
• Recognize the secondhand clothing market as an integral part of the primary fashion system.
• Establish transparency and accountability standards for environmental impacts within resale chains.

Current Regulatory Gaps

Currently, no policies exist in the United States or Europe regulating the resale of secondhand clothes. Addressing this gap is critical to advancing sustainable fashion practices and meeting global sustainability targets.

Conclusion

To support the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals, particularly SDG 12 and SDG 13, it is essential to develop and enforce policies that promote transparency and sustainability in both primary and resale clothing markets. Enhanced consumer awareness, combined with regulatory frameworks, can drive more responsible consumption patterns and reduce the environmental footprint of the fashion industry.

1. Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) Addressed or Connected

1. SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production
   • The article discusses consumer behavior related to purchasing secondhand clothing and the environmental and social costs of the fashion industry, directly linking to SDG 12’s focus on sustainable consumption and production patterns.
2. SDG 13: Climate Action
   • The mention of environmental impacts such as shipping-related emissions and unsold inventory disposal relates to climate action efforts under SDG 13.
3. SDG 8: Decent Work and Economic Growth
   • The article touches on the fashion industry’s social costs, which can be connected to SDG 8’s aim to promote sustainable economic growth and decent work conditions.

2. Specific Targets Under Those SDGs Identified

1. SDG 12 Targets
   • Target 12.5: Substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling, and reuse.
   • Target 12.6: Encourage companies to adopt sustainable practices and sustainability reporting.
2. SDG 13 Targets
   • Target 13.2: Integrate climate change measures into national policies, strategies, and planning.
3. SDG 8 Targets
   • Target 8.4: Improve resource efficiency in consumption and production and decouple economic growth from environmental degradation.

3. Indicators Mentioned or Implied to Measure Progress

1. Indicators Related to SDG 12
   • Indicator 12.5.1: National recycling rate, tons of material recycled.
   • Indicator 12.6.1: Number of companies publishing sustainability reports or disclosing environmental impact metrics.
   • Implied indicators include metrics on unsold inventory disposal rates and shipping-related emissions from garment transportation, as suggested by the article’s call for disclosure by resale platforms.
2. Indicators Related to SDG 13
   • Indicator 13.2.2: Total greenhouse gas emissions per year, including those from transportation and production.
3. Indicators Related to SDG 8
   • Indicator 8.4.1: Material footprint, material footprint per capita, and material footprint per GDP.

4. Table: SDGs, Targets and Indicators

Source: news.yale.edu